Trivia question: What was the monk Dom Perignon most famous for? Hint: This is not as obvious as it may seem. Answer at the end of the column.

The romance of wines is the romance of faraway places, foreign soils, and loving attention to the winemaking process. It can also be a love affair based on the familiar, simple endearments of a wine from one’s own country, a sturdy, reliable everyday choice. Wine in its nuances can be anything from a passionate lover, a beloved spouse or an old and trusted friend. As we value the finesse, the intelligence or the easy honesty of a friend or lover, so we value a well-balanced Burgundy, an elegant chardonnay or a simple but delicious California zinfandel.

It is no wonder that we relate so strongly and viscerally to wine. Its soul is in the soil. Ashes to ashes, dust to dust; wine is finite, ages and mellows and eventually lives out its life. The French concept of terroir — the special characteristics of geography that bestow individuality — hints that like us, wine is a largely a product of its enviroment. In fact, terroir is sometimes translated as "a sense of place" connected with the effects of the local environment on the wine’s life and production. In this week’s column, we’ll let wine take us on a journey, then look at a number of inexpensive but tasty wines and finally explore affordable alternatives to more expensive bottles.

Take an inexpensive trip to Italy and fall in love

Wine, like literature, has the power to transport us to places we’ve never been. It allows us to experience taste combinations and sensual sultriness beyond the ordinary and accustomed. Take, for example, the incredible Southern Italian red wine made by Tenuta del Portale called Starsa, from the Basilicata region. It’s made from the little-known aglianico grape from vineyards on the slopes of an extinct volcano called Monte Vulture. The soil there is volcanic and ashy and the wine is lovingly aged in Slavonian oak casks to preserve the grape’s unique fragrance. I would call the delectable aroma a cross between a booming zinfandel’s cherry vanilla and a syrah’s plummy, sweet spice. Same for the taste, filled with intense fruit and tobacco, full-bodied and with perfect tannins that mellow to a long and rich finish.

What’s best is that while the wine sometimes goes for up to $13.99 a bottle, you can find it for $9.99, even $8.99 at warehouse stores. It’s a small price for a ticket to the volcanic slopes of Mount Vulture — and for a truly unique wine.

Another Italian treasure that can inexpensively transport you to an exotic locale is Salice Salentino, from the southern part of Apulia — the heel of the boot of Italy. Vineyards here have been planted almost exclusively with a grape called negroamaro (or Negro Amaro), translated “bitter black.” Living up to its name, the wine features a bitter but likeable edge. It’s unfiltered and rustic and it’s easy to imagine yourself stopping by a neighborhood café to fall in love with this little pleasure, its bright or deep red hue and its supple tannins. The 2003 vintage of this intense wine is available at The Wine Merchant and other stores from a vintner called Vecchia Torre di Leverano for around $8.99.

If you look around, you can also find other affordable versions of Salice Salentino — and a 100 percent negroamaro from Feudi di San Marzano that features concentrated fruit, smooth tannins and a nice long finish for around $9.99 a bottle.

Frugal focus: Laurent Miquel

After featuring Les Jamelles in the last column, you might think that I have a weakness for wines from the south of France. It’s really a coincidence, and I’ll be featuring wines from around the world in future columns. But these wines, made by the young and talented winemaker whose name graces the label, are so superbly balanced and complex for under ten dollars that I felt that I should feature them. You can find out more at the Laurent Miquel Web site.

Laurent MiquelChardonnay/Viognier 2005

This is one that my wife and I really enjoy. I’m not a big chardonnay lover, but the peachy notes and citrus tang of the viognier balance this out and the result is delectable. It’s wonderful drunk alone but I suspect it would be great with spicy dishes as well as the obvious seafood. The Wine Enthusiast says: “It’s difficult to tell which grape is giving the more exotic flavors to this wine. Both seem to contribute to the apricot and spice tastes, as well as the smooth, creamy texture. So the blend works, leaving a full-bodied, ripe wine that will work with spicy foods.” And they give it an 88 score, which is excellent for a wine retailing for around $9.99.

Laurent MiquelCabernet/Syrah 2005

Another great $9.99 wine, this one features 60 percent cabernet and 40 percent syrah. The vintner’s craft shows here in a surprisingly complex wine at this price level. The syrah almost magically adds spice while softening the cabernet tannins. The result is a savory, slightly peppery and beautifully scented wine with soft fruit and great balance.

Laurent Miquel also makes a blend of syrah and grenache that I haven’t had the pleasure of sampling, but it’s also affordably priced at $9.99 and my guess is that it is also a great value. Anyone tasting it and wanting to share your reactions can contact me at HarryC13@aol.com.

Don’t forget the trivia question: What was the monk Dom Perignon most famous for? Answer at the end of the column.

Digging deeper

A few extra dollars burning a hole in your pocket? For five or six bucks more than the wines listed above, you can try Laurent Miquel Viognier or their Syrah/Viognier blend. This is a classic French viognier, turning the neat trick of being both floral and fruity, with a pleasant nutty taste as well. I haven’t had the Syrah/Viognier, but thought it worth mentioning because I assume that it’s as special as the others.

Affordable alternatives

From time to time, Ten Dollar Tastings will feature a section on affordable alternatives to more expensive wines. One value that I’ve long treasured is Cotes-du-Rhone from France’s southern Rhone region. (Maybe I do have a thing for French wines after all!) If you like Chateauneuf-du-Pape and can’t afford its price for an everyday wine, Cotes-du-Rhone — and especially Cotes-du-Rhone Villages — provides a suitable substitute.

You won’t get the massive, full-bodied power and firm tannins of Chateauneuf, but you will get some of the complex fruit flavors. If the wines of Cotes-du-Rhone don’t have enough tannin for your taste, let me recommend Cotes-du-Rhone Villages. These wines have the same enjoyable fruit flavors and aromas, but are typically a little more intense in taste and have more tannins.

While you will probably spend over $10.00 for a good Cotes Du Rhone Villages bottle, they are still generally considerably less than their “big brothers” of Chateuneuf-du-Pape. And there is one I can highly recommend for under ten dollars — La Ferme de GiconCotes Du Rhone2004. My friends at The Wine Merchant say that it’s “likely the best Cotes-du-Rhone you'll find under $10. Medium-bodied with all the classic flavors you want in a wine from this region: dried cherry fruit, cinnamon spice, and light earthy tannins.” Grab a bottle today and find out for yourself.

I told you so!

Last month, you’ll remember that I recommended the Les Jamelles wines of the Languedoc region of southern France. The January-February 2007 issue of The Wine Spectator rated the Les Jamelles Sauvignon Blanc 2005 at a solid 85 — according to their chart, “very good; a wine with special qualities” — and ranked it among their best values. Also in that issue, the Les Jamelles Pinot Noir 2005 was given an 82, the Chardonnay an 81 and the Viognier an 80, all within the range of “a solid, well-made wine.” Remember that these are all priced at an astounding $8.99 a bottle.

Also listed among their best values were wines from two Washington state (U.S.) vineyards: Covey Run Columbia Valley Gewurztraminer (listed at $8.00 but I’ve seen it for as little as $5.99) and Hogue Columbia Valley Gewurztraminer, listed at around $9.00. I heartily endorse both. You’ll hear more from me in future columns about both of these stellar and affordable wineries. The Hogue Chenin Blanc, also generally available for under ten dollars, is a delightful accompaniment to Chinese food or drunk alone.

Coming up: wine — it’s not just for pairing with food anymore!

Next time we’ll talk about wines and literature and film — perfect complements for reading your favorite novels or movies. And we will explore the mystique, the myth and the reality behind those inexpensive and allegedly tasty Charles Shaw wines called “two buck Chuck.” Sure, they’re cheap, but are they really tasty. Hint: The Wine Spectator seems to think so. But find out what I think in the next Ten Dollar Tastings. 

Until then, in vino veritas!

Answer to trivia question: If you answered that Dom Perignon invented champagne, as legend has it, this does not appear to be true. Champagne already existed, and what the monk inherited was the problem that all attempts to preserve the wine had ended in popped corks due to champagne’s active fermentation. According to Funtrivia.com and The Learning Channel, what Dom Perignon did was invent the mushroom-shaped cork and wire cage that allowed the sparkling wine to be safely bottled. I have found conflicting reports on this, however, and would be happy to discuss it, so feel free to contact me at HarryC13@aol.com.

Thanks as always to The Wine Merchant for providing excellent wines, wine education and support. Prices are based on the author’s experience and may vary.

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