Harry’s bargain basement cellar


This column is on affordable wine. Not the kind that winos buy at the corner store, but tasty, interesting, even elegant drinks. Maybe you’re looking to stock some affordable wines for when company drops in. Or perhaps you want some good everyday wines to go with meals so you can save your pricier selections for special occasions. And possibly there is that little bit of bargain-hunter in you that rejoices when a guest gushes over a glass of wine — and their look of surprise when you tell them that it’s from an eight-dollar bottle.

The base level of quality for wine is that it has characteristics of the varietal or blend it’s made from. In other words, if I buy a two-dollar bottle of “merlot” at the supermarket, it will probably taste like red wine — nothing particularly distinguishing the merlot from a cabernet sauvignon or zinfandel at the same price. In fact, until 1978, wines labeled as a given varietal could contain only 51 percent of that grape. Now, U.S. law mandates that at least 75 percent of the variety listed on the label is of the one named.

The wines here are definitely true to their varietal origins, and they are affordable. You will not get the complexity of a $90 bottle of Pinot Noir at these prices, but you can build a basic cellar on little more than a beer budget.

In future columns, we’ll explore beyond the basics of budget wine and discuss how they pair with food, with the seasons and with literature and music. For now, let’s take a look at some outstanding bargain wines for December and the holiday season.

A taste of the holidays
December is the month of holidays. Most places, frost and festivity is in the air. For those without frost, there is still the collective sigh of relief at the end of another hard year -- or the communal prayers of thanks for a great year -- and the closeness of family and friends. And because holidays are festive, wine can be the perfect accompaniment for tree trimming, candle lighting or to brighten up a meal. Wine also makes a great gift — and at these prices you afford to give it. Note: Prices may vary. Many of the prices quoted are from The Wine Merchant in Raleigh, North Carolina, a full-service store that combines great wine selection, great service and wine education.

This month’s wines come from six different countries. Because like many wine lovers I associate red wine with cooler weather, let’s start with some reasonably priced reds.

Periquita, 1999 vintage. Jose Maria da Fonseca, Portugal, $8.99. From the land of vintage port comes this tasty quaff made from the little-known Castelão grape. It’s smoky and sultry, with tobacco and berry aromas and tastes and a long, smooth finish. As the vintage indicates, it ages well, and your guests will think it’s at least twice the price.
Langhorne Crossing Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Malbec blend, 2003, Australia, $8.99. As with many well-crafted blends, this is an easy drinking wine with one varietal rounding out the rough edges of the others and providing depth. Surprisingly complex at this price, aged in French and American Oak and full of shiraz spice and light fruity flavors.
CraneLake Petite Sirah, 2003, California, $5.99. That’s right — under six bucks, and I’m told you can find it cheaper. Great blackberry and cherry aromas, and a full-bodied and jammy taste. Its purple robe lends visual appeal. It’s a little weak on structure and the finish is not the longest I’ve seen, but for this price, what a great example of the petite sirah grape.


Now, on to these winning whites, priced to please::
Falling Star Sauvignon Blanc and Semillon blend, 2005, Argentina, $4.99. Our friends in South America know how to do sauvignon blanc. The 10 percent semillon rounds out the sprightly, acidic citrus that positively pops from this little crowd-pleaser. The aroma, like the taste, is tangy and alive with lime and grapefruit. A steal at twice the price. By the way, they also make a great merlot-malbec blend for the same price — and both are screwtops!
Penascal Sauvignon Blanc, 2005, Spain, $6.99. Surprising richness for a sauvignon blanc, and excellent citrus fruit. Hints of new-mown grass, pineapple and green pear vie for your attention with a good acidic tang. For dieting after the holidays, this is a prefect wine with a fresh green salad spiced with herbs. Clean, refreshing and easy on the wallet.
Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet, 2005, France, $8.99. Here’s a triple bargain: You can also buy the picpoul de pinet varietal from Cave de L’Ormarine (Cuvee Prestige) and Cave de L’Ormarine Carte Noire for about the same price. The Hugues is dear to my heart, though: pale, yellowish green wine with delicate, fresh grapefruit and citrus aromas, delightfully acidic, with melodic notes of pear and a clean, crisp finish. Subtly grows on you like Christmas on Scrooge.


Finally, it wouldn’t be the holidays without some sparkling vinos. For more sparkle and less spending, try:
Marquis de la Tour sparkling white and Marquis de la Tour sparkling rose, no vintage, France, $8.99. Incredibly tasty sparkler for the price. Mix it with mimosas or sip it with seafood. Or just drink it up and enjoy its apple and grapefruit undertones and overall drinkability. But my favorite is the rose. Made primarily from syrah, I’m told, but also with some cabernet franc and grenache, it’s salmon pink with a delicate bouquet and taste of strawberries and raspberries — and a slight hint of broodiness that is unexpected but quite pleasant in a rose.

Digging deeper
For those who can dig deeper into their pocketbooks — and dig a deeper cellar— there are a few wines that, for a few dollars more, can offer deeper nuances and a further appreciation of fine wine. For example, a glance at the Wine Spectator’s newly released top 100 wines reveals several for $15 or less that merit your attention. These wines, coincidentally grouped in the mid-to-lower 60s in the listing, include:

#64: Jacob’s Creek South Australia Reserve Shiraz, 2003, Australia, $13.00
#65: Greg Norman Estates Limestone Coast Cabernet-Shiraz, 2003, Australia, $15.00
#66: Alois Lageder Alto Adige Pinot Blanco, I2005, Italy, $12.00
#67: Bodegas Borsao Garnacha Campo de Borja Tres Picos, 2004, Spain, $12.00
#69: Churchill Douro Estates, 2004, Spain, $15.00


Happy frugal festivities. Next month, we start the new year reviewing the impressive and priced-to-please wines on France’s Les Jamelles label and many others. Cheers!

Thanks as always to The Wine Merchant for providing excellent wines, wine education and support. Prices are based on the author’s experience and may vary.